Passport to Porto

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When the chance arose to tack a vacation onto the end of a work trip to Germany, we couldn’t say no.

With two months to plan and a somewhat limited budget, we searched for European destinations that would provide respite from the chilling Northeast winter but were still affordable.

Porto immediately stood out as our best option. This seemingly happenstance destination suddenly seemed serendipitous when my manager told me she grew up in Porto had a killer list of recommendations. With our annotated Google Map downloaded on our phones, we hopped on our budget flight from Cologne to Porto and began the vacation that I mentally revisit regularly nearly three years later. I’m so excited to share some of my tips as well as my favorite spots for sightseeing, eating, and (of course) sampling port wine.

Until borders reopen and the world settles into a new equilibrium, these memories will have to suffice. I hope that you, my friend, will love Porto as much as we have.

Obrigado, Oporto. We will be back.

Authentically,
Cate 

This charming coastal city has a vibrant port winery scene, exquisite seafood, and endless winding hills guiding you down to the storied Douro River.

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When to go:

We explored Porto in the middle of December. We were greeted with beautiful temperate weather, with temperatures ranging from mid-50’s to low-60’s during the day. Nighttime was a bit chilly, but it was nothing that a beautiful glass or port or some scintillating mulled wine couldn’t fix. A few taxi drivers told us that we were lucky, since Porto can be a bit rainy during December. It was wonderful visiting Porto in the winter, but I would definitely heed the taxi drivers’ advice and bring an umbrella.


What to know:

While incredibly friendly and welcoming, English capabilities were fairly limited in our experience. Google translate and a mobile internet connection were crucial, whether it was for conferring with a taxi driver, ordering dinner, or buying bottles of flat water. We did find that taxi drivers were comfortable speaking in Italian when English wasn’t an option, and restaurants were able to work with pointing and talking with your hands as well. Proficiency in Portuguese is not required, but an understanding that English is not universally spoken is crucial.


What to see

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Stroll through Porto’s stone streets to find some unexpected hidden treasures. Let yourself take it all in, these are the moments we will cherish most dearly
X Cate
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Sé do Porto

This gorgeous stone cathedral in the city center is truly breathtaking, and the well-lit monument can be appreciated even at night.

Terreiro da Sé, 4050-573 Porto, Portugal

Clérigos Tower

Climb this baroque tower for a panoramic view of the city – the views are stunning in the evening, but be prepared for some wind!

R. de São Filipe de Nery, 4050-546 Porto, Portugal

www.torredosclerigos.pt

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What to eat and drink

Word to the wise: not much is open on a Sunday, so plan your meals ahead of time. Some of the nicer spots are small and book up quickly, so try to make a reservation or eat on the early side (7 PM is considered pretty early in Porto).

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Laurear

Worried that poor planning had left us with no options for Sunday night dinner, we stumbled into Laurear grateful to have found a restaurant that was open. We were blown away at the candidly friendly staff (who seem to also be the owners) and the cozy homey feeling we got nibbling on charcuterie and grilled meats. This restaurant may lack space, but makes up for it with extra heart.

Rua da Fábrica 18, 4000-196 Porto, Portugal

Casa Serrão

This hidden gem slightly outside of the city serves some of the freshest seafood and fish, and facilitates a scenic walk to remember along the coastline dotted with beautiful homes and historic lighthouses

R. Heróis de França 521, 4450-159 Matosinhos, Portugal

http://www.casaserrao.com/

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Cruel

A culinary experience to remember, complete with a menu that challenges you to try dishes designed for the fearful, cautious, and cruel.

Rua da Picaria 86, 4050-447 Porto, Portugal

www.cruel.pt

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Taylor’s

The first port wine house we visited had convenient options for English self-guided tours and gave fascinating insight into the history of and current process of making port wine. The tour concluded with a great port tasting in a gorgeous villa, and the walk up to the villa allowed you to drink in all of Porto’s beauty.

Rua do Choupelo 250, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal

www.taylor.pt

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Ramos Pinto

Having missed the last English tour of the day, we decided to still try a flight of Ramos Pinto port. This ended up being our favorite port in the city, and we came back (at least) one more time during our short stay. While less stately than Taylor’s, we truly did not want to leave the cozy wood-paneled tasting room with a view of the Douro River. We still buy Ramos Pinto port today.

Av. de Ramos Pinto 380, 4400-290 Porto, Portugal

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